The Carat (Ct) of Gold refers to the amount of pure gold to that of an alloy, commonly silver and copper.
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Gold in its purest form is very soft, so alloys are added in to make it more suitable for working with and wearing Jewellery. In addition to strength and hardness, the amount of alloys present will change the price and colour of the metal. Gold in its natural state is yellow, but by adding additional pure metals we can create white and rose gold.
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24ct - Pure Gold (100%) No Alloy
18ct - Pure gold (75%) Alloy (25%)
14ct - Pure gold (58.3%) Alloy (41.7%)
9ct - Pure gold (37.5%) Alloy (62.5%)
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Each Ct. of gold comes with its own strengths and weaknesses, and making a choice comes down to the item of jewellery and budget. Here are a few things for you to consider:
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Look & feel : visually 18ct will be brighter and more lustrous than 9ct. 18ct will feel weightier because it is denser than 9ct
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Colour : depending on the alloy present, you will find slightly different tones of yellow, white or rose gold
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Durability : although 9ct is technically harder, it is less resistant to knocks and scratches than 18ct
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Wear : 9ct is tough enough for a lifetime of daily wear, 18ct is better suited for heirloom and intricate piece
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Price : per gram 18ct is roughly twice the price of 9ct however its important to note the price is constantly changing and the introduction of alloys creates a difference in density. Therefore the same item in 18ct will have more weight than that of its counterpart in 9ct.
The Silver I use is 925 Sterling Silver which is the industry standard and the traditional choice for most Jewellers.
The 925 refers to the amount of pure silver from 1000 parts.
Pure Silver (92.5%) Copper (7.5%)
Like Gold, the inclusion of another metal adds strength and durability to the metal which makes it easier for working and wear.
There is an enormous variety when it comes to coloured gemstones which means there is usually something to fit a budget. There are a number of factors which will dictate the price of a stone and a few things to consider when choosing. However it really comes down to personal preference and what fits your own style and budget.
When it comes to choosing coloured gemstones here are a few things to help guide you:
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Colour : gemstones are found in the entire spectrum of colour, but will range in depth, tone, intensity and evenness. Some colours may suit your skin tone better than others
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Shape & Cut : stones are cut en cabochon or facetted. Cabochon has a smooth curved surface, where as faceted stones have multiple flat faces (facets). When it comes to cutting its all about the colour and where in the stone its coming from, because of this they might not always be perfectly symmetrical, most of the time however you won't notice this.
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Weight (ct) : the weight of gemstones are measured in carats (cts), however these differ from cts of gold. With gemstones, 1ct equates to 0.2g, or in other words, 1g = 5cts
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Inclusions : an inclusion is anything visible inside the structure of stone, they can both add value or devalue a stone, be desirable or undesirable
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Lustre : the lustre is quality and quantity of light that is reflected off the surface of a gemstones. The quality of cutting and the structure of the material will determine how good this is
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Durability : a very important aspect to consider with your jewellery. Some gemstones can withstand a lifetime of everyday wear, and some need special looking after. Durability is the ability of a gemstone to withstand knocks, abrasions and changes in the environment. One thing you can look at when deciding, is the degrees of hardness which is shown on a scale from 1-10 called 'Mohs scale of hardness', diamond being the hardest at 10.
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Desirability : beauty, rarity and durability all play their part in the desirability of gemstones, as do global demands and current trends. The desirability of a specific stone can change over time, but its important to remember that its subjective
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Locality : certain gemstones from specific mines or locations may fetch a higher price: ex/ Burmese Rubies or Colombian Emerald
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I source my gemstones from a number of reputable gemstone and diamond dealers in Ireland, the UK and Sri Lanka.
Diamond is the hardest known material on earth and the only gemstone which is a 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness. When we talk about diamonds, we refer to the grading system known as The Four C's : Colour, Cut, Clarity and Carat.
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Colour : diamonds are graded on a scale from D-Z, anything above this is considered fancy colour
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D-E - exceptional white​
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F-G - rare white
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H - white
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I-J - slightly tinted white
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K-L - tinted white
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M-Z - tinted colour
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Fancy - fancy coloured
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Cut : this refers to the shape, style of cut, symmetry, proportion and quality of polish. When it comes to diamonds it is desirable to cut in a way that maximises the brilliance and sparkle of the stone, known as the fire! The brilliant cut does this exactly by cutting each fact to specific angles to maximise the reflection and return of light.
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Clarity : this refers to anything visible inside or on the surface of the diamond and is graded on a scale from flawless to imperfect. The location, type and prominence of the inclusion will play a role in its grade
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Flawless - FL
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Internally flawless - IF
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Very very slightly included - VVS1 & VVS2
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Very slightly included - VS1 & VS2
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Slightly included - SI1 & SI2
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Imperfect - I1 & I2 & I3
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Carat : the weight of diamonds are measure in carats (cts), and as the weight goes up, so too does the price. Prices are often quoted in 'price per carat' and there are some sizes more desirable than others. The price therefore can jump considerably between cts, for example a flawless, D colour, 0.95ct diamond is worth less per ct than a 1ct diamond of the exact same grade, even though visually it looks almost identical.
